Nothing but maccas
Peru, May 1780. A royal botanist crosses a plain where almost nothing grows.1
Hipólito Ruiz led the King of Spain's botanical expedition. On 11 May he left Tarma at eight in the morning with his draftsman, Isidro Gálvez, bound for Reyes, ten leagues away across a wide pampa. Reyes was so cold all year that no trees, shrubs or grass grew near it. Its people raised barley inside stone walls so their animals would have something green in April and May.1
On all these pampas they planted no other crop than roots called maccas. The people were sure that a woman who ate them could make herself fruitful, and many who were childless came asking for them. Ruiz gave his own verdict. "The truth is that the maccas are stimulating, at least when eaten in quantities."1
He left at seven the next morning, bitterly cold after a night of frost, in a fog that came almost every day until the sun cleared it at eight or nine. Half a league on began Lake Chinchaycocha. The party struggled across the ruins of the Inca highway, "that great work of the pagans".1
Ruiz had crossed almost the whole of maca country. Most colonial records of the crop point to the shores of this one lake, today's Lake Junín, on a plateau some 4,000 metres up. People there had been eating the root for more than three thousand years.1, 2, 3, 4
Roots in a rock shelter
The oldest maca yet found came out of a rock shelter's rubbish heap. Panaulauca Cave lies 4,140 metres up in the Junín highlands, and people lived in it from 7700 BC to AD 1200. In 1979 an American archaeobotanist, Deborah Pearsall, began floating the plant remains out of its soil.4, 5
Maca roots first appear in layers from between 1900 and 1600 BC. At first they are thin, like the roots of a wild Lepidium that grows around the cave today. Then, layer after layer, they grow fatter and more plentiful, biggest between 1000 and 300 BC.4
Pearsall read it as people tending the plant into a crop, perhaps on ground churned up by the herds they were taming. No other dig has turned up maca, though dried roots keep well. Ancient Peruvian potters modelled crop after crop in clay, and never a maca.4
Paid in maca
The lake's Spanish master was a horseman who knew when to change sides. Juan Tello de Sotomayor was one of the riders Francisco Pizarro sent to find a site for his capital, and a founding citizen of Lima in 1535. Marriage to Catalina Riquelme, daughter of the treasurer Alonso Riquelme, brought him the encomienda of Chinchaycocha. It took in the lake and its shores, and the tribute of the people who lived there was his.6
In the conquerors' civil wars he rode with Diego de Almagro against the Pizarros at Las Salinas in 1538. When Gonzalo Pizarro's rebellion fell into disgrace, he went over to the Crown, "betting on his best advantage". On 12 January 1549 the royal "pacifier", Pedro de La Gasca, gave him two more peoples, the Yaros and the Chaupihuarangas. Their tribute included 700 pesos of gold, 50 fanegas of potatoes and 150 fanegas of maca.6
That was three times as much maca as potatoes. In the 1570s Chinchaycocha alone still brought him more than 6,600 pesos a year.6
Bread, green and dry
Around 1629 the Carmelite friar Antonio Vázquez de Espinosa wrote up the province from his travels. It was so cold that not one tree grew there, and no corn or wheat. All the people had was a root shaped like a turnip or a little loaf, which they called macas. They assured him it was so fiery that it left the ground exhausted for thirty years.7
Yet the province had a large population, living in round houses like vaults. They burned llama dung and shut their doors tight until the smoke made each house "like a sweating chamber". It was "a dirty and wretched sort of life", the friar wrote, and yet the province was very rich.7
His manuscript lay in the Vatican, filed as anonymous, until a Smithsonian scholar came upon it around 1930.7
In 1653 a Jesuit, Bernabé Cobo, drew the fullest early portrait of the root. Maca grows "in the harshest and coldest part of the sierra", where no other food crop will, as if God had given it so that the people there would not go without. It was their bread, fresh and dried, all year round. The root was the size and shape of a small pear, white as a turnip inside, sweet and good.8
It had a strange property. One year's sowing "burns the land", Cobo wrote, so that it cannot be sown again for more than ten years. The friar had heard thirty.7, 8
Common opinion went further, Cobo wrote. Elsewhere in Peru the native peoples were dwindling. Here, in a province so barren and cold, they lived on maca and multiplied day by day, and the root had the power to do it.8
Cobo's book waited 237 years for a printer. It came out in Seville in 1890.8
The priest of Pisacoma
On 4 April 1831 a hailstorm caught Franz Meyen on the pampa of the Pisacoma river, in the far south of Peru. Meyen was a botanist sailing round the world on the Prussian ship Prinzess Louise. That evening, in bitter cold, his party reached the village and the house of its priest, Don Hermenejildo Viscando.9
The priest ruled his remote village like a prince. Ten or twelve dishes of solid silver came to his table at every meal, and he served perhaps the best chocolate Meyen drank in Peru. Yet he would give the exhausted horses and mules no green fodder, so the muleteer bribed a servant for some. Asked how many people lived there, the priest answered, "Two, sir! No more, the others are all Indians!" He meant himself and his nephew.9
On his day of rest Meyen gathered a rich haul of rare plants. Later he asked friends to describe whole families of them. One, the botanist G. Walpers, named a plant from "the plain around Pisacoma" after him. Lepidium meyenii was maca's first scientific name. Those pages were already printed when news came that Meyen had died in Berlin in 1840, aged thirty-six. They describe sprawling stems, toothed leaves and diamond-shaped pods. Of a root, not a word.9, 10
In 1857 Mariano Eduardo de Rivero, Peru's consul general in Belgium, called maca a kind of potato. Dried maca looked to him like pork cracklings, and by general opinion it greatly stimulated reproduction.11
The plant behind the name came from far south of the maca fields and had only a slightly thickened taproot. In 1990 a Peruvian botanist, Gloria Chacón, gave cultivated maca a name of its own, Lepidium peruvianum. A mustard-family expert at the Missouri Botanical Garden stayed with meyenii, while admitting, "I have been hunting to find the type of L. meyenii, but without much luck." Once maca became big business, the Peruvian name won followers anyway, mostly for reasons outside botany.12, 13
A hot drink on the Lima road
By 1980 maca was down to perhaps fifteen hectares, grown mostly to eat at home. In 1982 it was declared in danger of extinction as a crop.14, 15
Also in 1980, Timotea Cordova began selling a hot maca drink at her shop in Junín, on the road from Lima to Huánuco. Truck drivers and travellers loved it, and it was said to be good for sexual stamina and fertility. From her little shop word of maca spread across Peru, above all to Lima. Postcards on show there thanked Timotea for marriages restored and children longed for.14
In 1989 the US National Research Council put maca in a book called Lost Crops of the Incas. By 1994 Peru's farm census counted 556 hectares.15, 16
Then came the boom. A Peruvian drug company launched maca tablets in 1998. President Alberto Fujimori talked maca up in Japan, and the government financed 800 more hectares around Junín. In 2001 and 2002 the harvests swamped the market. Some 2,000 tonnes of dried maca sat in store around Junín, prices collapsed, and many farmers were ruined because they could not pay back their loans.17
In those same years the United States granted Pure World Botanicals patents on a maca root extract and its use for sexual dysfunction. Campaigners in Peru accused the patent holders of flagrant biopiracy, and by 2003 a Peruvian delegation had taken the case to the World Intellectual Property Organization.18
Warriors on the march
In 2014 the New York Times passed on "one historical account". In it the Inca emperor fed his troops maca for energy, then took it away after victorious campaigns to tame their sexual desire. An older telling says the ban was to protect the women.19, 20
None of the old writers in this story puts maca in a soldier's hands. The chronicler Inca Garcilaso de la Vega lists the roots of Peru and leaves out maca altogether.1, 2, 7, 8, 11, 21
The oldest telling that could be read is in a 1997 handbook from a plant genetics institute in Rome. It calls the tale "the legend", straight after summing up a 1996 magazine article, "An ancestral Peruvian plant of astonishing powers", which had the Spanish letting their horses graze on maca to keep them breeding. A 2009 review traced Inca troops fed on maca to a 1981 book on nutrition in ancient Peru. That book could not be read, and there the trail goes cold.2, 20, 21
The livestock go back further. Lost Crops of the Incas said "surprised Spanish chroniclers" had seen maca make their livestock breed in the highlands. It named none, and none of these chroniclers says so.15, 21
One old writer did tie maca to the Incas. In 1615 the Andean chronicler Felipe Guaman Poma de Ayala finished his illustrated history of Peru for King Philip III. The Incas and their people of old lived 150 or 200 years, he wrote, because they kept a rule. As boys they ate no fat, honey, chili or salt and drank no chicha. Each month they purged with bilca tauri and the same weight of maca, half swallowed and half given as an enema. They took no wife or husband until thirty, "and so they had very great strength".22
His Incas did not take maca to war. They purged with it, kept chaste and lived to two hundred.22
The gold rush of 2014
In June 2014, as the harvest began, Chinese buyers arrived in the town of Junín with suitcases full of cash. Within weeks the most sought-after maca went from about $1.80 a pound to more than $11. Thieves knocked a storehouse manager on the head and drove off with 2,600 pounds of the root. Truckloads went secretly to Bolivia, and seed went abroad despite a ban.19
At 14,800 feet, about 200 workers for Hugo Arias, the local "maca king", knelt in a cold wind, scraping the earth with short picks for $11.37 a day. Some of the women had babies on their backs. "They say I'm exploiting people," Arias said. "I don't exploit anyone. I give people work."19
"The poor person in Junín can't eat maca anymore," said Olga Rapri, who kept a clothing shop in town.19
The old trouble came back too. A maca field is planted for two years and then must rest for as long as fifteen, so farmers kept moving farther out, onto dizzyingly steep hillsides. Cobo said more than ten years. The friar had heard thirty. The root still burns the earth.7, 8, 19
Today maca is studied mostly for sexual function, menopause, semen quality and sport. What the trials found is in the Research tab.23
On the high plain where Ruiz found no crop but maccas, the pickers still kneel in the wind, some days almost too cold to pull the roots from the ground.1, 19